Frequently Asked Questions...
Approximately How much would this fender be worth?
The guitar is a telecaster musicmaster, it has orignal paint (which is a little chipped) I think that it is a 1956, the tuning heads are very rusted up and hard to turn, it is definatly an old guitar and it shows it, the number on the neck plate is 101564 it is red with a white pick guard, it also has a missing knob. also what would be your ideas as to what i should have done to it to get the most money for it, or increase its value
thanks
Answer:
Hello there,
I do not think you are looking at a 1956 Fender Musicmaster. The serial number would date it to 1965. See this link for the date.
http://home.provide.net/~cfh/fender.html#serial
The Musicmaster is not a Telecaster. It is a separate model called the Musicmaster. It has a different body shape and different neck headstock from a Telecaster. The Musicmaster was a short scale guitar made with one pickup. The 2 pickup version of this guitar is called the Duo Sonic. These have a 21 fret 22 1/2 inch scale neck. The 1956 Musicmaster has an aluminum pickguard. In 1959, the pickguard was changed to plastic. After 1964 (when the Mustang was released) Fender changed the Musicmaster and the Duo Sonic. They used Mustang necks on the Musicmaster then. I think that is when they made the 22 fret 24 inch scale neck available on the Musicmaster.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Fender_Musicmaster
There is currently a 1966 Musicmaster listed on eBay for $1500
http://compare.ebay.com/like/250670264612?ltyp=AllFixedPriceItemTypes&var=sbar&rvr_id=215246592209&crlp=1_263602_304662&UA=WXI7&GUID=92f1a31b12b0a0e0f1958b85ffffa4fa&itemid=250670264612&ff4=263602_304662
Of course that one has not sold yet. Here are some recent sales of them.
1966 Musicmaster $500
http://cgi.ebay.com/1966-Fender-Musicmaster-II-/170602710125?pt=Guitar&hash=item27b8b6c46d
1961 Musicmaster $460
http://cgi.ebay.com/1961-Fender-Musicmaster-3-4-scale-/280631660717?pt=Guitar&hash=item4156f350ad
1966 Musicmaster $775
http://cgi.ebay.com/Completely-Original-Vintage-1966-Fender-Musicmaster-II-/110648377668?pt=Guitar&hash=item19c3284144
1966 Musicmaster in Daphne blue $850
http://cgi.ebay.com/1966-Fender-Musicmaster-II-electric-guitar-Dafne-Blue-/220746079204?pt=Guitar&hash=item33657ddbe4
After that, there were several listed from $1100 to $1500 that did not sell, such as this one.
http://cgi.ebay.com/1962-Musicmaster-Fender-/400192005552?pt=Guitar&hash=item5d2d4d65b0
Here is a 1956 Duo Sonic that did sell for $2700. The Duo Sonic has 2 pickups and the Musicmaster has only one. Otherwise they are the same guitar. Note the alumunium pickguard.
http://cgi.ebay.com/1956-Fender-Duo-Sonic-Guitar-Pre-CBS-Rare-Musicmaster-/160549674796?pt=Guitar&hash=item2561819f2c
For maximum value, leave it absolutely stock. Do not replace any rusted parts. Any time you change a part on a vintage guitar you decrease the value. So if you would replace those rusty tuners with new ones, the value would drop considerably. You can replace the missing knob by buying a vintage one of the same type. If you cannot find one, or do not wish to spend that much for a knob, leave it off. Putting new parts on a vintage guitar detracts from the value. If there is one new part on a vintage guitar, a buyer will be skeptical thinking there may be more. You can clean the guitar, but do not refurbish it. Do not under any circumstances refinish it. This is clearly a case of less is better.
By the way, you have a very nice, old hand crafted guitar. Fender does not make them like that these days. I have not had the privilege of playing a Musicmaster. I have played a 60s Mustang. It was a great guitar to play.
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Knob Fender
Removing Fender Stratocaster Knobs
H.i.d. Lights: Installation Guide
There really isn’t any doubt that H.I.D. lights are gaining a lot of appeal in the automotive industry. Ask most luxury car owners and it’s one of the things they have included in their “To Buy” list. In fact, these kits have slowly become a household name in the industry -- thanks to the right combination of style and safety that it is becoming known for.
However, one question that most drivers ask is how easy HID lights can be installed. Actually, it’s as easy as changing the bulb of a semi-complex and sophisticated flashlight. What you need is a semblance of common sense, two working hands, an instruction guide that comes with the HID kit that you’ve purchased and a bit of trial and error from time to time.
Before you begin installing your HID lights, make sure that the crews are installed in their respective holes. This will prevent possible mishaps during the assembly process, since the screws might unpredictably go in at an angle, which consequently makes it much harder to turn and install the screws later on. Immediately installing them in their housing can prevent these problems from ruining your day.
Now that you have done the screws, the first step to installing your HID lights is to remove the battery's negative cable. Remove the headlamp’s top cover, and manually position the door in the mid-position to remove it. Look for the manual override knob on the inside corner of each headlamp, and raise it to remove the bezels and top cover easily. Next, remove the headlamp assembly using a 10mm socket and ratchet, and once you’ve removed the assembly, use a sharp razor knife to score the aluminum headlight. Once the headlight assembly is out of the way, slash the aluminum headlight bucket with a fine razor knife. The scored ribs must be removed to install the new HID headlight assembly.
Next, get your aluminum rib and break it off. After doing the first headlight bucket, tighten your vise grips when grabbing the aluminum to make sure that the edges are cleanly cut. Run the razor knife again if the aluminum does not break in your first try. After this, use a piece of two-sided tape to attach the ballast to the inner fender and strengthen the ballast by adding screws. Don’t cover the serial number on the backside in case you need to replace your ballast. And also, make sure the headlamp assembly fits without frictions happening on any of the cut aluminum ribs.
After you’ve done this, put the screws by reaching around the sides of the headlamp bucket. Make sure to place some soft rags or blankets around the hood and fender to prevent falling pieces from rubbing and scratching the headlamp housing on the paint.
Now you can install the screws to firmly hold the ballast on the inner fender. Don’t exert too much force when putting the screws in place because the inner fender is light and prone to breakage. Once all the screws are placed, secure them carefully. Be extra careful in this process, too. The screws can cut into the plastic and break off the plastic mounting ears.
Now loosen the coolant reservoir and remove the battery protector to route the wiring under the battery tray. The battery protector pops out easily. Just press the plastic pushpin along the windshield edge to pull it out. Then, tie the cross wire harness in place by using tie-wraps. Make sure that you are careful around the hood hinges, as the wiring can be nipped if you leave it unlatched.
Once all the wires are in place, connect them to the ballast. However, make sure that you install the colored wires correctly -- the battery and ground supply wires to the ballast should be installed with the red wire on the inside next to the inner fender and the black wire out.
Next, crimp the wire connectors together. Then, connect and tighten the battery wires to the stud on the fuse panel. Pay attention to the placement of the terminals so the plastic cover can be reinstalled.
After this, carefully connect the screws and tighten them afterwards. Once they are tightened, manually turn the headlights down into position to put it in its correct placement. One way to check if it is properly placed is through wiggles. The rule of thumb is that when it is wiggling, then you need to adjust it again.
Now, run the wiring under the reservoir by removing the coolant reservoir. It’s not necessary to remove the coolant hoses when the screws are already removed. As you can see, the negative battery cable is still separated, so do the final wiring connections at the frame ground stud. The black wires are joined here, and then the battery protector that you previously took out sits down on top of the stud.
By the way, when you are doing the wiring, refer back to the instructions provided by the company. You may find some headlamp wire connectors have missing wires. Don’t panic. This is quite normal in most products. And also, you can prevent shorting by remembering to connect the single wires and thrusting the provided boot. Use a tie-wrap to grasp it out of the way of the headlamp during opening and closing.
There you have it. It doesn’t take a rocket science to install HID lights. Just follow these steps, and you’ll soon enjoy the benefits of having these lights installed in your vehicle.
About the Author
A Computer Engineering student and loves to travel. Reading current news in the internet is one of his past times. Taking pictures of the things around him fully satisfies him. He loves to play badminton and his favorite pets are cats.
For more information and queries, you may visit HID Lights
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