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 VHT V-DRIVE AV-VD1 OVERDRIVE DISTORTION EFFECTS PEDAL US $70.00 
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 Boss OD-20 Drive Zone Distortion/Overdrive Guitar Effects Pedal PD-5744 US $104.50
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 BUILT IN ACTIVE DISTORTION ACTIVE DRIVE CIRCUIT GUITAR 5 SETTINGS BLUES-METAL US $14.99
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 Classic Green Ibanez TS9 TUBE SCREAMER Over Drive Distortion Pedal Works Great! US $61.00
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 EBS Metal Drive Distortion free ship! Bass Metaldrive US $199.00
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 EWS Little Brute Drive Distortion LBD NEW free US shipping US $128.00
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 Guyatone Mighty Micro Hot Drive HDm5 Distortion NEW! US $119.00
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 CARL MARTIN CRUNCH DRIVE Vintage Overdrive Distortion Pedal - NEW US $161.00
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 Tech 21 Double Drive 3X Distortion Guitar Pedal - Brand New! US $169.00
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 c Electronic Ndr-1 Nova Drive Overdrive & Distortion Effect Pedal US $159.99
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 Effect Pedal MOOER Ultra Drive Distortion Pedal True bypass with 3 Working Modes US $49.98
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 MOOER Effect Pedal Hustle Drive Distortion Excellent Sound HP/LP True bypass US $49.98
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 New MOOER Hustle Drive Distortion Excelle sound Effect Pedal True bypass US $88.00
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 New MOOER Ultra Drive Distortion Effect compact Pedal True bypass US $88.00
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 NEW VHT V-DRIVE AV-VD1 OVERDRIVE DISTORTION EFFECTS PEDAL FREE SHIPPING IN USA US $94.99
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 Boss OS-2 Over Drive Distortion Guitar Pedal metalzone EQ Noise Gate Chorus used US $39.99
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 Rockett Flex Drive Overdrive Distortion Pedal US $199.00
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 ZVEX EFFECTS DISTORTRON Distortion Gain Fuzz Drive JTM45 Simulator Marhsall USA US $159.99
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 Zoom Power Drive PD-01 overdrive distortion pedal US $60.00
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 New Effect Pedal Ultra Drive Distortion MOOER Original/ Extra/ Ultra Modes US $48.90
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 NEW Effect Pedal MOOER Hustle Drive Distortion Pedal 2 Modes True Bypass US $45.90
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 Boss OS-2 Over Drive Distortion US $59.00
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 K.S. Aji Violet Drive overdrive distortion guitar effect pedal stompbox US $99.00
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 EWS Brute Drive Distortion Pedal US $152.00
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 T.C. TC Electronic NOVA Drive NDR-1 Analog Distortion US $180.00
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 DigiTech HardWire CM-2 Tube Overdrive Distortion Guitar Effect Pedal US $65.00
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 Boss DN-2 Dyna Drive Distortion Guitar Effect Pedal! New Demo Model! US $40.00
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 Suhr SHIBA Drive Boutique Overdrive Distortion pedal surh shibadrive US $183.00
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 Boss BC-2 BC2 Combo Drive British Distortion/Overdrive Pedal Stomp Box w Cables US $119.00
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 KOD NG-14 METAL MAX - Vintage Analog DISTORTION/DRIVE guitar pedal |1982 US $109.04
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 New Akai Drive 3 Distortion guitar pedal Authorized Dealer=Full Warranty US $149.98
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 EWS Brute Drive Distortion - Eric Gales Version ! US $120.00
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 Nova Drive T.C. Electronic NDR-1 distortion overdrive pedal true bypass US $150.00
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 Boss SD-1 Super Over-Drive Distortion Guitar Effect Pedal US $19.99
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 Sobbat DB-1 Drive Breaker 1 Hyper Distortion NEW FROM DEALER!! FREE S&H IN U.S.! US $229.95
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 Suhr Shiba Drive Overdrive/Distortion Pedal & Free Premium Cable - Brand New! US $200.00
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 NEW Boss DN2 Dyna Drive Distortion Overdrive Pedal US $88.00
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 Garage Tone CHAIN SAW Distortion Drive Guitar Pedal NEW US $49.99
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 VHT V-Drive Overdrive - Distortion Pedal AV-VD1 US $109.99
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 OVER DRIVE VISA DISTORTION PEDAL HIGH GAIN GUITAR EFFECT HANDMADE NXGENERATION US $105.00
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 GET 2 DYNAMIC WARM OVER DRIVE + VISA DISTORTION PEDALS GUITAR EFFECT HANDMADE US $159.00
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 EWS Fuzzy Drive Fuzz/Distortion Effect Pedal US $119.20
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 "Lell DD" - vintage analog Drive \ Distortion produced in USSR in 1990 US $105.00
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 Providence FLAME DRIVE FDR-1 Overdrive Distortion Pedal US $399.00
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 Boss SD-1 Super Over Drive Distortion Guitar Effect Pedal NEW in Box US $49.97
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 Tech 21 Double Drive 3X Distortion Pedal US $139.00
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 Radial Tonebone Hot British Distortion Pedal w/ Variable Drive - PRISTINE US $99.00
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 Akai Professional G Drive D2G Distortion Equalizer ULTIMATE TWEAK FUZZ US $150.00
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 EWS Fuzzy Drive Guitar pedal fuzz overdrive distortion Perfect Condition OBO US $85.00
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 NEW EBS Metal Drive Distortion for Bass US $199.00
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 Dr. No Drive-O-Matic Distortion Pedal US $279.00
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 New! JHS Pedals Charlie Brown "Channel Drive" OD/Distortion + Free Pedal Cable! US $199.00
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 Boss BC-2 BC2 Combo Drive British Distortion/Overdrive Pedal Stomp Box w Power US $128.99
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 TC Electronic NDR-1 Nova Drive Overdrive and Distortion Pedal US $239.00
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 EWS Brute Drive Distortion/Overdrive Pedal (E.W.S.) US $152.00
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 Providence Flame Drive Free the Tone Overdrive Distortion US $280.00
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 Boss OD-3 OverDrive OD3 Over Drive Distortion Pedal US $99.00
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 EBS Metal Drive Bass Distortion Pedal NEW ! US $199.00
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 Guitar Parts - GUITARHEADS UNDERDRIVE - Onboard PASSIVE FUZZ DISTORTION Drive US $7.99
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 Tech 21 DD3X Double Drive 3X Distortion Pedal US $179.00
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 Chandler Limited Germanium Drive (Germanium Distortion Pedal) US $335.00
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 Empress Effects Germ Drive Overdrive & Distortion Guitar Pedal - Get Cash Back! US $175.00
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 EWS Brute Drive Distortion Pedal, NEW--AUTH Dealer with FREE CABLE US $152.00
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 Boss OD-20 Drive Zone Distortion Guitar Effect Pedal US $75.00
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 ★☆★☆ TECH 21 DOUBLE DRIVE 3X MOD - PROGRAMMABLE DISTORTION PEDAL - DD3X NEW ★☆★☆ US $178.99
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 AMT Electronics: VT Drive Distortion Overdrive pedal US $99.00
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 Voodoo Lab SPARKLE DRIVE Overdrive Distortion Pedal NEW US $129.00
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 BIYANG OD-8 Guitar BASS Effect Pedal X Drive Distortion True Bypass US $71.99
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 E.W.S. FUZZY DRIVE (powerful fuzz/distortion/overdrive) US $119.00
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 TC Electronic NDR-1 Nova Drive Overdrive and Distortion US $259.00
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 EBS Metal Drive High Gain Bass Distortion Overdrive Pedal US $209.00
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 George Dennis Distorted Mind Blues True Bypass Shapable Gain Drive Distortion EQ US $119.99
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 Akai Analog Custom Shop Drive3 Tri Mode Distortion Guitar Effects Pedal US $149.99
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 NEW! MOOER Ultra Drive Distortion Pedal True bypass / Effect Pedal US $88.00
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 Blood Drive Distortion NIB (low shipping!) US $69.00
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 Boss OD-20 Drive Zone twin pedal overdrive fuzz distortion US $109.95
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 Carl Martin Crunch Drive Distortion / Overdrive Pedal US $161.70
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 Carl Martin Rock Drive Distortion / Overdrive Pedal US $161.70
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 GUYATONE HD 3 HOT DRIVE DISTORTION W/TRUE BYPASS US $93.75
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 Sobbat DB-Bass Bass Drive Breaker bass hyper distortion BRAND NEW! FREE U.S. S&H US $295.00
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 EWS Little Brute Drive Distortion Boutique Guitar Effects Pedal US $128.00
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 EWS Fuzzy Drive Fuzz/Distortion Effect Pedal NEW US $119.20
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 Tech 21 DD3X Double Drive 3X Distortion Pedal -w/ George L US $179.99
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 Pigtronix FAT Drive Analog Overdrive Guitar Distortion Pedal US $139.00
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 TC Electronic NDR-1 Nova Drive Overdrive/Distortion Guitar FX Pedal 886830073656 US $207.20
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 TC Electronic NDR-1 Nova Drive Overdrive/Distortion Guitar FX Pedal 886830071140 US $207.20
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 NEW Effect Pedal/MOOER Hustle Drive Distortion Pedal True bypass +Audio Cable US $88.00
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 Boss BC2 Combo Drive Distortion Pedal US $119.00
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 Boss BC2 Combo Drive Distortion PEDAL PAK US $137.99
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 Tone Candy Sweet Drive Distortion NEW Authorized Dealer US $199.00
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Drive Distortion
Coffin Case BDFX-1 Blood Drive Distortion Pedal Review
The Proper Driving Position
A good driving posture is neglected by most drivers, and it's a shame that it's so. A proper driving position really helps in driving better. It provides ergonomic support and good comfort over time during long trips, but also provides you with a better field of vision in front, as well as to the sides and rear. It gives better car control (safety), and better secondary safety, once a crash has occured. Race drivers can spend a day long worth of practice sessions on getting the driving environment to be inch-perfect. In a road car, it only takes a quick minute, but most drivers don't uphold it.
The hanged-back Driver
This is a portray of phenomeon where drivers put their seat back and down in a dangerous fashion. These drivers have a poor field of vision towards the road ahead, and even relative to the mirrors, making them prone to fail to notice hazards. The posture makes them less vigilant, more prone of sleeping at the wheel and, in any case, have a longer perception time. Even once the hazard is percieved, the driver will have to lean and stretch forward and grab the controls (steering, brakes or what not) which makes their reaction time longer as well and even than, their steering input is not likely to rapid or accurate enough and they won't manage to brake as hard. This results is losing precious seconds that make up for dozens of meters that might differ a crash from a near-crash. These drivers are also over self-confident, which makes their driving more dangerous.
In a crash, this posture is going to be more like not wearing a seatbelt at all (assuming that was worn). The drivers lower extremities (i.e. legs) will become bolt-straight. This will make the shock ommitted from the pedals to be absorbed into the bones and not the muscles, creating fractures along the leg and up the pevlic and even the base of the spine. The same is likely to happen to the driver's arms, causing fractures across the whole arm, and in the scapulae, collar bone and even the spine. Furthermore, the driver's pelvic will "submarine" under the lap belt, making the knees clash against the underdash and causing the belt to chaft against the stomach and cause internal injuries to the organs of the stomach.
As this happens, not only will the lapbelt (and pretentioner) have reduced efficiency, but the shoulder belt will be completly inefficient, making the driver's upper body to be thrown in all directions, leading to back injury, shoulder injuries, and injury to the neck and head, which will not be supported by the head restraint. The operation of all airbags in the car will be not be efficient in protecting the driver: The driver's airbag is likely to bruise the stomach and hit the unrestrained upper body with force as it's tossed about, and the side airbags will be deployed in an angle that fails to protect the pelvic. Passengers in the back (if they managed to get in) would be hit by the seats or the unrestrained driver.
This posture is also not comfortable by any means. The driver has to bent his neck up to see the road, and hounch the shoulders and stretch the arms to reach the wheel, and the same with the pedals. To move the wheel, the driver would have to lift his body up and away from the seat.
The Protective Driver
The opposite example is the driver which is seating up and against the steering wheel. This driver has a visual field that tends to be focused at the ground ahead and not further down the road. Upon need, the driver's ability to respond will be crippled as the movement of the arms will be restricted by the body and the feet will be put against the underdash. In a collision, the airbag or steering itself will mortaly hurt the driver and the underdash will hit his knees. The position is going to cramp the arms, shoulders, neck and thighs.
The Average Driver
The average driver typically adopts a driving position which is step forward from the "hanged-back" driver. They are normally positioned slightly too far to the back and with the back-rake no as upright as it should be and usually seating too low, as well. This resuls in more cramped limbs, less pedal and steering control, longer reaction times and harder damages in a collision.
The Advanced Driver
How it should be done: Let's begin with clothing and footwear. It's obligatory to drive with decent clothing: A normal shirt and pants (preferably not shorts or short skirts). Just like clothing that is too short, a big coat is also not very good. It reduces your freedom of motion at the wheel, makes you feel "stuffy" and reduces the efficiency of the seatbelt. Use the air conditioning or heating to create a comfortable environment while wearing comfortable and unlimiting clothes.
Footwear is particularly important. Driving barefoot or with flip-flops is very dangerous. The pedal control will be reduced, the driver will be unable to brake quickly when required, unable of stepping out of the car in an emergency and is prone to hurt his/her foot badly in a collision. Alternativelly, bulky boots or high heels are not efficient either. Choose a thin-soled, snug-fitted shoe and make sure it's clean of mud (keep a small towl in the car).
The next step is the seating itself. Adjusting the seat is not going to be effective if you are not sitting properly in the seat. Note: I specifically state that one should sit IN the seat, not on it. Push you rump tight into the back of the seat and reach as much contact as possible between your body and the seat. You should be seated in a centered fashion and straight up and-down, as well. Leaning aside is going to hurt the back, and make it dangerous in a collision.
At this point just adjust the seat's height (if possible) and other adjustments according to feel as a parliminary adjustment, and now begin setting the right posture, beginning with adjusting the distance of the seat itself from the pedals and steering. Start the engine and press the brakes a few times to power up the brake booster. Now, fully depress the brake pedal. Your heel should be on the floor and your knee should remain bent at about 140 degrees. This a good posture that maintains good leverage of the pedal in an emergency braking scenario and reduces orthopedic injuries to the leg, while keeping the legs in a relaxed posture in your normal driving.
The next stage is to adjust the seat's back rake to a relatively upright angle (about 110 degrees) so that it's a bit more parallel to the angle the steering wheel, and a bit more close to it. This should allow to operate the wheel in any possible way without outstretching the arms forward and without unnecessary movements of the back forward or aside. The back should remain comfortably against the seat, leaving on the limbs to operate the controls.
Now we use the adjustments of the steering (if possible) to reach a better posture. We use the height and distance adjustments of the wheel to bring it closer to us and/or as parallel to the angle of the back as possible and, through these two criteria, reach a good distance from the wheel, while keeping it high enough to use (with clearence from the knees) and with a clear view of the instrument panel.
Now we use the seat's height to exploit all of the options: We adjust it for good forward vision and for a clear view of the instrument panel. For proper forward view, your head should have a clearance of about four fingers from the ceiling. Check the pedals again and recheck the back-rake angle and the steering height, as the change in the seat's height can effect them.
In a proper adjustment, the steering height relative to your shoulder should be so that the palm on the wheel (in the proper grip described further down) will be about five centimeters lower from the shoulders, as a good compromise between a comfortable grip and the ability of a quick steering response.
The next adjustment would be the tilt of the seat's base. Adjust it to comfort, and recheck the pedals. Now, other than checking that your knees are bent as they should be, ensure that the thigh is not pressing hard against the seat itself when you hit the brakes hard. The thigh should be pressed against the seat, but not so very hard. In fact, you should be able to insert you palm underneath it to ensure it's good.
Now is the time to check the whole seating position: Put your back and scapulae (shoulder blades) agains the back of the seat and reach your left arm straight forward. The arm should be straight, but not forcifully outstretched forward. In this fashion, your wrist should be rested flat over the top of the wheel. If your wrist only touches the face of the wheel, you need to readjust the steering. If this does not help, you need to check the back-rake and if none of these two achieve the necessary result than you might have to pull the seat itself closer.
You should be able to bend your wris slightly over the rim. Some cars, like trucks (with seering wheels situated at a problematic angle), go-karts or single-seater race-cars, you should make sure you can grip the wheel at the top end without outstretching the arm or leaning the shoulder blades forward.
Hand Position
Now, we need to ensure our placment of the hands and feet over the controls are right. Our hands are easier to get right: With the proper position, our palms on the wheel should be slightly lower than our shoulders, and angled at the elbows at about 120 degrees. The lower the wheel is placed, the more relaxed is our static grip, but the less will our arms be free to turn the wheel quickly. The higher they are towards our shoulders, the more tiring the fixed grip will be, but our ability to steer quickly with the arms will be increased, but the accuracy will also be reduced.
Put both of the hands on the wheel, at 9 and 3. This position allows you to place your palms on the outer diameter of the wheel (not on the face of the rim) with only the thumbs "hooked" inside it, and with the fingers curled up around it. This allows you to grip the wheel in a secure manner, while applying minimum force against the wheel.
When you squeeze against it, your tensed muscles generate fatigue and absorb the vibrations of the wheel, reducing steering feel. The hands should remain relaxed when turning the wheel, too. Turn the wheel 90 degrees right and a bit more. Look at your arms, is the left arm tensed up? Try to drop the elbow and let it relax, and get used to turning the wheel like this.
In this position, the arms should be relaxed and the grip should be comfortable over time. A driver that grips the wheel one handed hurts himself by reducing the steering authority by more than 50%. One handed steering is mistakenly percieved as a more relaxed manner of gripping and turning it, which could not be furher from the truth. The one hand has it's weight working on the wheel, so any rocking of the upper body moves the wheel, and we need to constanly use our upper body muscles to keep it in place, causing cramps.
In the quarter to three position, the arms balance each other, provide the greatest leverage unto the steering column and the bigger amplitude in an event where you need to steer quickly: Almost 270 degrees of steering with both hands, at once. The arms are also placed in a safe position relative to the driver's airbags, which would spread the arms aside or pin them down against the thighs, rather than throw them in the driver's face.
Feet Position
The thighs should be placed as apart as possible for good body support. The thigh muscles are much stronger than the back muscles, making it possible to conduct on long journies without back aches. The right foot should operate both throttle and brakes while the left foot operates the dead pedal and the clutch, if there is one. All pedals are operated by the ball of the foot, not the toes, and all pedals other than the clutch are operated with the heel used as an axle.
The right heel should be placed roughly in front of the brake pedal, and the foot itself should be able of pressing the brake pedal with it's left side (you don't need your whole foot on the pedal) and should be able to pivot over the heel and depress the throttle. The driver in this way will make the driver capable of "skipping" back to the brakes at will, and will make the driver press the gas pedal at a lower position, making it's operation more smooth and sensitive.
The left foot should be on the left footrest. This provides good body support and an equall distribution of the body's weight over the pelvic. When turning and especially when braking hard or swerving quickly, the left foot can press against the footrest to brace the body. If one was not to brace himself against the footrest during hard braking, the body will be thrown forward and the driver would have to push agains the steering wheel in a dangerous manner that makes him unable of swerving, if necessary. Pressing on the footrest allows to steer freely and to brake harder, as well.
The clutch is the heaviest pedal and it should be operated with the whole foot. Of course, if you are holding it down when you are stopped or rolling slowly, you can rest your heel on the floor and use it as a pivot, too. Another situation involves emergency braking where, needless to say, the right foot drops down on the brake pedal without using the heel as a pivot.
Head Restraint
The Head Restraint is the most misused safety instrumentation in the car. It is an important safety feature that protects the head and the neck from whiplash, forehead injuries and even from a broken spinal cord. It should be placed as high as the driver's eye-brows, at the very least, and even more importantly - as close to the head as possible. Some cars feature head restraints that are poorly designed, cannot be adjusted forth and aft. or are not very adjustable. In this case, you need to compensate by brining the whole backrest to a more erect angle. A good distance is 2-3 centimeters, where anything over 6 centimeters is dangerous.
Seatbelt
By far the most important, the seatbelt must be used, and it must be used properly. If the seatbelt isn't used, the human body can be injured in collisions starting from a speed of mere 7km/h, and to lethal injuries when colliding at 25km/h. The lower part of the seatbelt should fit as snuggly as possible over the sturdy pelvic bones. Many people don't fit it tight enough, and some place it too high, so it sits dangerously and uncomfortably on the soft stomach, prone to cause internal injuries in a crash.
The upper part of the seatbelt should be adjusted the fit by playing around with the location of it's upper mounting (which is usually adjustable) and with the seat's back rake. The mounting itself should be above our shoulder height, and the strap should run directly over our acromion, a bony socket between our arm and neck, at the end of the collar bone. The belt should fit directly onto it, not so that it is dangling in the air and not so that it sits on the collar bone, neck, shoulder or arm. Additionally, when the belt is properly used, it is also very comfortable and does not restrict movement. Another thing to ensure is that the sternum is at least 25 centimeters away from the center of the steering wheel.
Fine Tuning
The driving position should be slightly readjusted for comfort in the appropriate conditions: If you are set to drive on a winding mountain road or on a race-track, it might be a good idea to move the seat a step forward and a bit lower, so that the knee angle in full braking is 120 degrees, the elbow angle at the quarter to three grip is 100 degrees and the palms are just short of the shoulder height, with the head in a distance of a handwidth (five fingers) from the ceiling.
For a long cruise down an open highway, with a median and thin traffic, you might choose to bring the seat one step backwards, while compensating by bringing the steering wheel closer to you (if your steering can't be adjusted "outwards", don't attempt this fine tuning) and placing it lower relative to your shoulders, and increasing the tilt of the seat's cushion. Your knees should remain slightly bent under full braking.
Mirror Adjustment
The next important step is the mirror alignment. Countless collisions involve swerving and hitting another car, where a substantial amount of those collisions is attributed to "blind spots" in the mirrors. These blind spots can be almost completly eliminated by deploying the mirrors in a wider angle, so you can see everything you need (and just that, no unnecessary "extras") with a glance of the eyes or a slight tilt of the head. Keep your interior mirror stock, don't use questionable aftermarket products that might shatter or be thrown about in a collision, and that will distort the image you see in them and fail to filter glare.
Adjust the interior mirror for a clear view of the rear window. Adjust both side mirrors so that the sides of the car (quarterpanels) are just bearly seen in the mirrors. Now, open both mirrors a bit further out so your own car come out of view. If your right-hand mirror (or, in some cars, the left-hand mirror) is smaller than the other one, open it further out. If it's electronically adjustable, open it further out by "three" clicks and, in any case, move your head towards the center of the car, in line with the mounting of the interior mirror. From this position, you should just be short of seeing the edge of the car in the mirror. If it's the driver's side mirror, you should be able to see the car's edge with your head against the window.
The overlap between the mirrors have no been reduced and the visual field into the areas at 7 to 6 O'Clock and 4 to 3 O'Clock, on both sides, so any car, bike or scooter in the near lane will be seen in one of the mirrors untill it is withing our peripheral field of vision through the front side windows (visible to us without any head movement). Before you switch lanes, glance at the interior mirror and the relevant side mirror, and start moving over gradually while taking another peek of the relevant side mirror.
Summary
We have concluded above just how a driving position is related to collisions where a driver did not see a hazard or did not react to it in time (a key factor in many collisions), in fatigue-related collisions, in collisions related to swerving, in instances of lost of control or in cases where the driver fails to slow down and stop. We have discussed the mechanism of the injuries in car collisions and, finally, showed how to adjust a driving position which will be comfortable, controlled and safe for the driver. This driving posture might take some time to get used to, but you get start getting used to it after a few hours and by a period of two to four weeks it will become natural. All aches and cramps would be gone, and the control of the steering and pedals would be more accurate and easy than ever.
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